Folio Fine Wine Partners chose a perfect setting – a private dining area of the elegant Swift & Sons restaurant, 1000 W. Fulton in West Loop – to showcase a series of equally elegant luxury wines by Luce della Vite from Italy’s Montalcino region. ‘Midst a forest of sparkling glasses filled with several iterations of one of Luce’s finest wines, attendees did a vertical tasting as representatives from Luce della Vite told the story of how the label – a stylized emblem representing the sun – came to be chosen as a symbol of the winemakers’ passionate commitment to quality.
The Mondavi family established Folio Fine Wine Partners in 2004 with the goal of bringing exceptional and distinctive wines to American consumers. Today they act as importers, fine wine agents and as producers of quality wines. They manage a diverse portfolio that spans six countries, three continents, and every premium price point. They work with other family wineries who share their passion for making great wine.
Wine has been the Mondavi family business for four generations. It began with Cesare Mondavi, an Italian immigrant who established a grape growing business in Lodi, California during Prohibition. They put down roots in Napa Valley starting in 1943 when they purchased the historic Charles Krug winery. Cesare’s son Robert later started his own winery with Michael, his eldest son. Rober Mondavi Winery helped establish California as the premier wine-growing region it is today. And now the legacy continues with Folio Fine Wine Partners.
Luxury is defined by quality and generally by price. Sometimes, though, its possible to find fine wines that fall squarely into the luxurious taste category yet can be purchased in the super premium range of $15 to $25 – within reach for almost any wine lover for special occasions. A number of Italian wines from Folio Fine Wine partners fit that bill, including two of the three excellent wines below from Coppo.
Any of these reds will grace your table and make you proud of what you’re serving with your rich, meaty dishes. For those who love dry, deeply flavorful reds, one of these would be perfect for upcoming holiday meals. If too heavy for turkey or fish, serve one with a plate of fine aged cheeses after dinner for a royal touch. Hopefully, you can locate a bottle or two through your favorite wine merchant.
Folio Fine Wines supplied samples of three lovely reds from the Coppo collection for review. Notes below.
Coppo L’Avoccata
Coppo Camp du Rouss
Coppo Pomoroso
2014 Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera d’Asti DOCG – Excellent, rich, deeply flavorful wine. Ruby red L’Avvocata offers Barbera’s typical intense aromas of ripened cherry and strawberry. Round, full-bodied and balanced with a spicy finish of cola and ripe berries. Pair it with pasta with rich meat sauces, roast beef, kebabs, ribs and aged cheeses. ~$15.
2012 Coppo Camp du Rouss Barbera d’Asti DOCG – Delicious with food. Deep red in color with garnet highlights. If offers textbook Barbera aromas of crushed cherry and wild berry jam, followed by notes of leather and herbs, and a hint of smoke. On the palate, Camp du Rouss is bright, with luscious, soft tannins. The supple layers of fruit are backed by Barbera’s trademark acidity making it the ideal food wine. Pair with meat in rich wine sauces, roast beef, cured meats and aged cheese. ~$23
2010 Coppo Pomorosso Barbera d’Asti DOCG – Loved this luxury-priced wine. Deep ruby red in color with garnet hues, Pomorosso offers a complex and fragrant bouquet of ripe cherries and blackberry, deliciously integrated with subtle notes of cherry liqueur, chocolate, vanilla and espresso. This Barbera is very intense and toasty in character with a solid yet velvety structure. You are bound to enjoy this gorgeous and elegant Barbera with rich, meaty sauces and pasta, polenta with sausages and mushrooms, or any red meat dishes such as roasted game, fillet mignon and roast beef. ~$75
About Coppo Piero Coppo founded the company in 1892 in the town of Canelli in Asti, Italy. Now his four grandsons and, recently, two cousins make the fourth generation to manage the family winery. They are all committed to applying integrated agriculture that has a low environmental impact, exceeds regulatatory requirements, and uses biodynamic principles in its viticulture and winemaking practices. The Coppo family produces a range of regional specialties, but it’s best known for producing outstanding Barbera d’Asti. Its 1984 Pomorosso was the one of first in the region to show Barbera’s true elegance and its capacity to age gracefully.
Known as #ColorsofSoave, an outstanding collection of Italian white wines from the region around Soave, located 12 miles east of Verona, came calling in Chicago recently. If you’re a baby boomer you probably remember that Soave Bolla was a huge a phenomenon during the 70s in the United States when Americans were just being introduced to wine as a way to enhance foods. Who knows what happened, but the name Soave seemed, for all intents and purposes, to drop off the face of the earth for the next several decades. Until now, that is.
While the sponsors admit it’s true that about 70% of Soave wines are extremely basic – call them forgettable by today’s standards – the varietal now also comes in really fine renditions. #ColorsofSoave put out an extensive display of these multi-layered, complex wines – all labeled Soave – that included still, sparkling, and semi-dry versions. Detailed maps of the region’s geography and samples of the several types of volcanic and limestone-based soils from the area gave guests a glimpse into the terroir. The specially selected varietal tasting was sponsored by the Soave Consorzio and held in the super-cool, elegant surroundings ofThe Boarding House bar and restaurant, 1720 N. Wells.
Blind tasting of beautiful Soave wines
Ten Soave whites were set out for a blind tasting – guests had no information about the wines available as the tasting proceeded. Participants first tasted each of the unidentified wines in a fairly chilled state and rated/wrote comments. Then, as the leader slowly revealed the name of each wine, guests re-tasted them in a more opened, less chilled state. The most important observation we made was that these were all delicious – mostly 4- and 5-star ratings. Below is a list of three of our 5-star and three 4-star picks.
Surprising Boarding House fruit salad
Several more varieties were set up with the food courses. A sparkling Soave accompanied the appetizers of ahi tuna ceviche and prosciutto-wrapped melon and heirloom tomato bruschetta. Other still versions accompanied the surprising tomato, peach and melon salad with Chevre cheese, the seared halibut with super-smooth parsnip puree, braised fennel and apple, and the incredibly light and flavorful fig and caramel cheesecake with apricots and streusel. Two lovely semi-dry dessert versions of Soave made the final courses taste especially lovely. Lots of kudos to the Boarding House for the excellent food.
Such a pleasure to re-discover this incredibly versatile wine. And interesting to learn that the Garganega grape is the main ingredient – minimum of 70% required to be called Soave. Most are made with 100% of this grape; the rest are made with about 80% Garganega and 20% either Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay.
Cantina del Castello 2015 Classico Pressoni – Apple aromas with a long finish, and made by winemaker Arturo Stocchetti, known for his passionate commitment to the craft.
Gini 2014 Soave Classico “La Froscá” DOC – complex layers, a slightly sweet finish, no sulfur. Comes from 50- to 100-year-old vines and made in one of the areas oldest, richest cellars, and proves that these wines can age gracefully.
2015 I Stefanini Soave Superior DOCG Classico “Monte di Fice” – lots of delicious layers. Great with food that’s not too rich – seemed not to hold up well to a rich cheese.
A few other notable Soave labels:
Rocca Sveva 2014 Superiore “Castelcerino” DOCG – light and lovely blend that’s smooth and clean-tasting. Made by the leading producer of Soave; nearly 1 of every 2 bottles are exported. U.S. distributor: Mionetto USA.
2015 Bolla Superiore Classico Tufaie DOC – known for appearing in Federico Fellini’s films (probably how it came to be known in America), it has a very slight sweetness to it that’s quite pleasant.
2014 Coffele Recioto di Soave DOCG Classico “Le Sponde” – a semi-dry sherry-like dessert wine that’s beautiful with fruit, fruit cakes, blue and goat cheeses.
Chicago’s beloved Joffrey Ballet is putting on Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet at The Auditorium Theatre, October 13 through October 23. So Chef/Proprietor J. Joho (bio) of Everest Chicago, 440 S. LaSalle St., has imagined a Shakespeare-inspired pre-theatre menu worthy of Julius Caesar and reflecting the cooking trends popular in Rome in the time of Apicius. And you will love the views!
Prepare to be charmed and delighted first by Everest’s regular amuse bouche – a trio of delicious bites that on opening night consisted of a tiny pewter cauldron of artichoke soup with basil oil, a refreshing emulsion of yellow pepper with cucumber gelee served in a spoon, and a small marinated scallop topped with a dab of American roe. Especially flavorful, all.
Amuse bouche
Fabulous bread selections at Everest
Elegant Chef/owner-initialed place settings
Next, a server – many servers played a role in making the evening as pleasant as possible – brought a tray of breads around, and we were invited to pick slices of the types we liked. Given that in our house, bread is a treat reserved for eating out, we picked more than one to try. And were delighted to see the silver salver brought to the table with a sizable and seriously thick slab of cold butter – oh, the joy. It looked like there was room underneath to put ice chips to keep the butter cold. We could not have been happier, until we put some on and bit into the bread. The weight and texture and flavor were so satisfying that we could easily have made that into a full meal at some other time. Absolutely delicious. Hard to stop eating.
But we had to stop with the bread eventually so we could enjoy the rest of the Shakespeare Menu. First course, Great Lakes wild whitefish, braised in garum and lovage, was a creamy yet flaky fish, cooked just right and served on a bed of tender, meat-broth-infused lentils. An unusual combination that worked well.
Second came an au naturel capon fricassée with Roman herb seasoning, served with chickpea panisse and sautéed romaine. The chicken was intensely flavored and the sauce had a slight hint of what we thought might be vinegar and/or pickling spices. Light and tasty poured over the chicken and the romaine. The panisse was creamy inside and very slightly crisp on the outside and made a nice neutral accompaniment to the richly flavored capon.
Wild whitefish
Au naturel capon
Roman beignet
Fromage Blanc Bamboloni “Roman Beignet” served with a compote of dried fall fruit and pistachio and a touch of honey. The deep-fried spheres of dough were crispy outside and tender inside, and the delicate cream on the side had barely a hint of sweetness.
Optional wine pairings ($29) coordinated nicely with each dish. The sommelier chose the following for the fish, Château Villa Bel-Air, Sauvignon Blanc, Graves 2014 ~ Bordeaux, France; 2) Lemelson “Six Vineyards” and for the capon, Pinot Noir 2013 ~ Willamette Valley, Oregon.
Make your reservation between 5 and 5:30 p.m. and enjoy the unique prix fixe three-course menu with complimentary parking for the evening. Your server will make sure you are on time for the performance! Call 312-663-8920 or visit www.everestrestaurant.com for more information.
What: Shakespeare 400 Chicago: Culinary Complete Works – Pre-Theatre Menu
Where: Everest, 440 S. LaSalle St.
When: October 13-23, 2016
Who: You and Chef/proprietor J. Joho and members of the professional staff at Everest
Chef Paul Liebrandt and Chef Lee Wolen (Photo credit: Jack Daniel’s and Getty Images)
It was a night to remember when Chef Paul Liebrandt and Chef Lee Wolen teamed up with Jack Daniel’s to create a totally off-the-charts evening of food and spirits at Boka Chicago . If you think that spirits don’t go with fine cuisine, Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Collection came together with these culinary stars to show you otherwise. (Yes, the photos below are dark – the layers of light were quite subtle at Boka – but we loved the ambiance.)
“Single barrel” means the spirits come from only one barrel and are not blended with any other. Perhaps you already know that 100% of the color and 65% of the flavor in a whiskey comes from the barrel it’s aged in. But did you know that Jack Daniel’s makes its own barrels? That’s what you call making sure of your quality control.
This collection of premium spirits is being introduced to the world with a series of special events across the country. The chefs and the locations are selected on the basis of their having the same passion for using only premium ingredients and applying extreme creativity to making the food and drink items stand far out from the ordinary. Boka Chicago Restaurant was a natural choice.
Luscious Jack Daniel’s aperitiz cocktail
Boka’s subtle layers of light
Jack Daniel’s Barrel Select neat
The evening started with oysters on the half shell with apple and celery, and a creamy, smoked something-or-other on a super thin and crispy black chip, adorned with a flower petal and a carved bit of radish – layers of delicious flavor. Served with these was a delectable drink consisting of white grape, lemon and Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Select topped with a splash of sparkling Chenin blanc.
The drink, served in flutes, had even those who admitted having previously only a tepid appreciation of whiskey, expressing surprise that it tasted so good. Plus, the atmosphere on the handsome, subtly lit patio just outside Boka’s main dining area, the soft almost-summer night, and the warmly professional service by the bartender who created the recipe, made the reception a lovely prelude to an extraordinary meal.
Once seated, guests found their places adorned with small crystal clear glasses of Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Select, designed to be drunk neat or treated delicately with tiny dropper bottles of water in case one’s palate required tempering the pure spirit slightly. The food feast began with softened butter and warm rolls – guaranteed to warm the heart of any Chicago steak house fan. But there any resemblance ceased. First course a single, perfectly seared Diver scallop, shiny with a Jack Daniel’s-infused glaze, was surrounded by a super-smooth puree of potato and smoked haddock, and accented with quince and with green mango chutney.
Wondrous Diver scallop dish
Rich and oily beef tartare
Extraordinary fish et al.
Second came the beef tartare: raw beef was served minced rather than finely sliced, seasoned with black garlic and sorrel, mixed with crunchy bits of puffed buckwheat, and topped with black caviar – a truly memorable combination. The cocktail accompaniment combined Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Select, nebbiolo grape, pu-erh fermented tea and bitters – a perfect complement to the rich, oily meat.
Next, a unique fish that was unusually firm – somewhat rubbery to the fork but melting in the mouth – called Kindai Kanpachi. The small triangle of fish was surrounded by a smooth puree of charcoal grilled beetroot (delicious!) and dotted with small circles of yogurt and licorice-laced bits. The presentation was gorgeous, the combination of flavors excellent, and the accompanying Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Rye combined with yuzu (Japanese citrus), raspberry and orange blossom, a delightful melange.
OMG – foie gras sausage and whipped foie gras with Jack Daniel’s gelle
A little slice of juicy foie gras sausage came alongside slices of rare breast meat from a whole roast duck, and was served with a small pot of sinfully delicious whipped foie gras frosted with a gelee that included a Jack Daniel’s reduction – OMG. The whole plate was out of this world. Dessert (raw milk ice cream with beautiful accompaniments) and its paired Jack Daniel’s’ Single Barrel Select amaro-style cocktail were equally impressive.
In short, the evening was full of gorgeous flavors in the food and drink, each option paired beautifully and served creatively in a lively, friendly atmosphere by knowledgeable professionals – every server knew the answer to any question about the food. The end result: everyone came away with a heightened respect for the talents of the chefs and mixologists and the versatility of Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel whiskies.
Tasting notes:
Single Barrel Barrel Proof – aromatic & smooth with notes of sweet brown sugar giving way to rich toasted oak and hints of dark spice. Drink neat or with a couple of cubes.
Single Barrel Rye – 94 proof makes this rye big and bold without overpowering. Ripe fruit flavors mingle with light toasted oak notes so the rye grain shines through with a rich peppery spice and pleasant lingering finish.
Single Barrel Select – Only 1 in 100 bottles reaches this elevation. Rich toffee and caramel notes touched with cinnamon. Significant body with layers of orange peel, cloves and gentle dusty lumber notes. Finely balanced among many integrated flavors with a moderately long finish and a soothing blend of sweet and spice.
The Kimpton Gray Hotel, 122 W. Monroe St. at LaSalle, is the newest upscale lodging option in the heart of the Chicago Loop’s legal and financial district. Located on the second floor, the lobby – known as “The Living Room” – welcomes guests with coffee, tea and muffins in the morning and wine and cheese receptions each evening. Naturally, the Wi-Fi is free. The huge arched windows, framed with floor-to-ceiling black velvet draperies with gold headers, let in natural light and spotlight views of bustling Monroe and LaSalle Streets.
Just off the lobby guests can join locals for lunch, dinner, drinks and more in the bar and restaurant Vol. 39, so named because it refers to the legal volumes that fill the bookcases surrounding the eating area. Handsome lighting and luxurious seating arrangements are perfect for intimate meetings, whether business or pleasure.
The new hotel is the dramatic result of a complete rehabilitation of the former New York Life Insurance building, originally built in 1894. A sweeping marble staircase leads from the entrance to the second floor lobby – graced with the sound of a jazz quartet at the grand opening. Many of the hallways in the 15 floors are still lined with the original marble. At the grand opening designers made dramatic use of lighting – electric, multi-colored, candles, spots and more – to showcase decorations and finishes. A large section of the meeting room space was strikingly decorated with candles and complementary yet completely different items to hold candles and flowers.
The elegant modern bar at Steadfast
Besides Volume 39, guests and locals can select breakfast, lunch or dinner available at Steadfast, the restaurant and bar located at 120 W. Monroe and situated within the main floor of The Kimpton Gray. Its menus offer unique items like duck liver mousse crostini and a laminated brioche sandwich with Serano ham, Manchego, quail egg and caviar.
Check out unique menu items at Steadfast
The presidential suite was beautifully appointed with sleek modern fixtures in a gray/white/black theme and was, well, presidential in its grandeur – easy to picture a president relaxing there. Other size rooms and suites were equally handsome though somewhat smaller, of course. On the 15th floor the rooftop restaurant/bar BOLEO offers a menu with a South American flair and a comfortable place to take in some unique views of downtown. The grand opening featured a hot-tempo video/DJ combo and soulful trumpet by Kafele playing along.
Kafele playing hot licks in the cleared-out dining space of Boleo
Elegant. Understated. Service-oriented. Kimpton always does a great job. And now The Gray is a new top pick among the Chicago Loop’s eat-drink-and-stay choices.
Even the powder rooms are cool at The Kimpton Gray Hotel
Villa Maria wines evoke visions of New Zealand’s North Island – rolling hillsides, misty mountain tops, lush fields and clear, easy-flowing rivers. These are beautiful wines from a beautiful country. And what a great idea to compare NZ wines with like types from California and France. A good way for Americans to really feel/taste/experience the differences and similarities.
Luxury white wine comparison
Villa Maria winemakers recently invited trade and press to do just that at Chicago’s Tavern on Rush; they organized a comparative tasting of six elegant white wines, only two of which were their own, one French and the rest top-selling American Chardonnays. Just sitting at the table with professional sommeliers and the owner/original winemaker himself, Sir George Fistonich, and listening to Nick Picone, Villa Maria’s current head winemaker, was an educational adventure as well as a tasting treasure.
Sir George Fistonich, founder and owner and winemaker
Villa Maria experts speak at Tavern on Rush
Nick Picone, Villa Maria winemaker
The six wines were set out in pairs to be tasted parallel with each other. Notes on the first pair:
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay 2014 (Napa Valley). Grown in clay soils and aged 1/3 in new oak, this wine shows many layers of flavor and gives taste sensations all around the mouth. California chardonnays are generally heavier than French versions, Nick said. Adjectives for this wine included low-oak, semi-dry, slightly dusty with lots of minerality. He said California wines tend to stay in the 13 plus-or-minus percent alcohol range.
Rombauer Vineyards Chardonnay 2014 (Carneros). A best-selling wine in this price category. Light, almost translucent with toffee, butterscotch and vanilla notes. It’s aged one-third in American oak, which is rich in lactone, the compound that gives vanilla hints and a slight sweetness, according to the winemaker. This, he said, makes this wine very popular in the U.S. where it’s often served as an aperitif and not with food. Alc 14.5%
The second pair were both Villa Maria Chardonnays, which Nick says are more comparable to white burgundies than to American chardonnays:
Villa Maria Keltern Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 (Hawkes Bay). They started making this wine in 2002, when it used to be a bigger wine with more oak made of 100% Chardonnay grapes grown in red clay soils in their flagship vineyard. Mature wines now are all fermented with 100% wild yeast. Nine months in French oak barrels; the wine has a hazelnut sweetness from the lees. They make only 500 cases of this for the entire world. You may not be able to buy a bottle of this at your local retailer, but it gives you an idea of the superb quality being produced at Villa Maria. Loved this one – top rating.
Villa Maria Taylors Pass Vineyards Chardonnay 2011 (Marlborough). This wine is completely different but has a similar fruit ripeness and freshness and acidity like a white burgundy. It’s grown from Malbec vineyard in an area with a big diurnal swing (day to night temperature range) and known for its Sauvignon Blanc. All that gives the wine “a touch of green fruit, a bit of brininess, even a hint of grapefruit. The wild yeasts give it a smoky sulfide taste – like striking a match,” said Nick. “We like that in a burgundy,” Again, only 500 cases of this are made for the world. Ditto on finding this at Binny’s.
The third pair made an interesting contrast, one a California Chardonnay and the other a French white:
Far Niente Chardonnay 2014 (Napa Valley). This pair is the most expensive of the six wines. Napa has a warmer climate than Carneros, which greatly affects the wines grown in each region. This wine is aged 60% in new French oak, so has a nutty, toasty, buttery flavor, much more subtle and very Burgundian in style. Especially high quality – top rating.
Joseph Drouhin Meursault 2013 (Burgundy). This one comes from a cooler climate and is grown in slate soils with more minerals. It’s not as rich as some of the others; rather it has high acidity and great freshness with a slightly briny taste of oyster shells. Delicate, slightly lighter, drier, very good for pairing with foods.
Villa Maria gorgeous Reserve Cabernet
These are luxury category wines; suggested retail prices run between $35 and $60. And look for more premium and luxury wines from Villa Maria – like their fabulous Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. And in case you fall in love with one or more of their wines and want to learn more, pick up a copy of the book, The Winemaker: George Fistonich and the Villa Maria story. It’s an extraordinary tale of how one visionaory man built a worldwide business that parallelled the growth of the New Zealand wine industry. He’s dedicated all of his energies to the pursuit of excellence in winemaking. And you’re sure to enjoy experiencing the end results with a Villa Maria wine in your glass.
It’s Oyster Fest week, people! Shaw’s Crab House Chicago is making this week a real standout on the calendar with multiple events honoring the king of bivalves, the oyster.
Yesterday, for example, author Cynthia Nims and Shaw’s invited press and industry pundits to hear about the amazing things she learned about oysters in writing her book, Oysters: Recipes that bring home a taste of the sea. Guests were treated to a wide variety of oysters made with recipes taken from her book and lovingly prepared by the oyster expert chefs in Shaw’s kitchen.
Wasabi oyster shooter
The delightful little Olympia oyster
Steamed Shigoku oysters
The event started with a sinus-cleansingly-hot wasabi oyster shooter and went on with a tray of oysters on the half shell from various regions of the US. These included the delectable small Olympia oyster from Puget Sound, several with Japanese names (and origins) from both East and West coasts, one from New Brunswick, Canada (very close to the Prince Edward Island known for its mussels) and one large, flat variety from Casco Bay Flats in Maine. The Olympia was a favorite.
Next on the menu came steamed-then-chilled Shigoku oysters, one dish made with a super-fresh and original mix of watercress, cilantro, Asian pear, candied pecans in an orange vinaigrette that was simply delicious. Another covered the oysters in a sake-ginger butter sauce full of flavor.
The hot oyster trio
One of multiple wine pairings from Shaw’s somm
Light-as-air souffle and sauce
Next course was a trio of hot oysters – one baked with leeks and thyme, another gratineed with kale, and a third grilled and covered with a bright green arugula-almond pesto. Meanwhile Cynthia regaled guests with stories of how oysters filter the water in which they live and how their taste is profoundly affected by their environment, somewhat in the way wines are heavily influenced by their terroir. She said in all her years of food writing she’s rarely seen the passion and the partiality of oyster lovers in fans of other food groups.
Check out other oyster-related events at Shaw’s here and get ready for their huge Oyster Fest, on deck for tomorrow, Friday September 30, 3 to 10pm. Rain or shine the fest is on – and Shaw’s stands ready to help you enjoy it no matter what. They’ve purchased 1000 rain ponchos to pass out should the weather decide not to cooperate. Whether you join the teeming crowds, or you purchase the new-this-year VIP seated/service option, come on down and thrill to the live music, the great food and fun crowds at Shaws Chicago Oyster Fest 2016.
New for fall butternut squash and sweet potato soup
The front corner window of Fogo de Chao Brazilian steakhouse, at 661 N. LaSalle and Erie Street, contains a large open fire pit. And when the attendant inserts giant skewers of meat into several evenly spaced holding slots, it means – as it does in Brazil – that this restaurant is now open for business. And that’s one way you know that Fogo de Chao is serious about meat. Went in to try several new menu items for fall with a view to telling you about them.
Yes, as the menu indicates, this place is all about the meat. But the warm mini popovers they serve as soon as you sit down are murderously good – and the little floury gems are even more irresistible with bits of cold butter (you have to ask for that). Had to restrain myself – knew there was a barrage of meat coming soon. But first, the beautiful Market Table and Feijoda Bar.
New for fall endive-pear salad
Smoked salmon and more
Fogo’s Market Table and Feijoda Bar
Vegetables, legumes and grains galore – gorgeous with color, shine, freshness, contrast. Just beautiful, and tastes as good as it looks. And here they sneak meat into even the new-for-fall endive pear salad – peppery bacon complements the lightly dressed fruit-greens-onion combo. For the kale salad, raw leaves are massaged with a dressing just puckery enough to offset the slightly bitter green. A colorful tabbouleh salad is chock-full with fresh herbs and onion and just touched with oil. The carrot and green bean medley – deliciously fresh, lightly dressed, studded with sesame seeds and cooked a pointe – tastes of the garden.
New for fall blackberry cocktail
Fogo’s impressive wine list
Service by the Fogo team
The special new-for-fall blackberry cocktail, Blackberry Azedo, is made with fresh blackberries muddled with mint and shaken with Hendrick’s Gin, Crème de Cassis (black currant liqueur), and a house-made lime sour. A drink with delicate blackberry flavor minus the harassment of the seeds – pinkish purply color, lightly sweetened, topped with a fresh mint leaf. The server couldn’t quite get why I was asking to have the cocktail as dessert. Would’ve been a nice finish to the meal. But it didn’t go amiss, either, as an accompaniment to the food.
When you’re seated for the full meat-lover’s dining experience ($52.95 any night of the week), you’re given a little cardboard coaster that acts as your signal to the waitstaff that you’re ready to quit eating salad and start eating meat. When you turn it from red (salad) to green, they start bringing huge skewers of many different meats and combinations of meats that they slice off for you. And it’s nice that you can call upon any server – everyone in the dining room works as a team so you always have someone nearby who can assist you with questions or requests.
The new-for-fall butternut squash and sweet potato soup was creamy and satisfying – perfect for when fall finally arrives in Chicago. And since in Brazil butternut squash is a winter staple, they’ve created a unique salad of it roasted with cinnamon and honey and then tossed with cranberries and feta.
Rare grilled bottom sirloin
Side dishes that complete the experience
Beautiful sea bass entree
Okay, first slice of meat, recommended by the server, is the super juicy bottom sirloin off one of the giant skewers. Good flavor – fire-roasted with only salt for seasoning, you really get the flavor of the meat. Which may be all you need. Or maybe you’ll like it dipped in the horseradish sauce or one of the other half dozen choices (BBQ, steak sauce, chimichurri, hot sauce, mint jelly for lamb). Sides that come with both meat and fish options include garlic mashed potatoes (super light and airy if a bit salty), fried bananas, and polenta cut in French-fry-style prisms, deep-fried and dusted generously with Parmesan. Wanting to see what the chef would do with fish, we also requested the baked sea bass option ($34.95 a la carte at dinner, $42.95 as full dining experience – or you can order just the Market Table and Feijoda Bar for $28.95).
Back to the main show. Next tried a slice of top sirloin rare. Then a slice of prime sirloin (juicy, good, rare and salty). Both very nice. They are able to slice it off the skewer – you prevent the meat from falling by grasping each cut in a small pair of tongs provided to you for that purpose – in precisely the doneness you want. Impressive. Did not partake of the bacon-wrapped chicken, the pork chop, the chicken and sausage, pork ribs or lamb skewers, but they all looked good. Easy to see why a lot of hungry guys like this place!
The grilled chicken breast was somewhat dry inside but with a tasty char on the outside. It was the perfect chance to use one of the sauces to enhance the taste experience.
While waiting for the sea bass (it takes about 20 minutes to prepare), notice that Fogo has a separate good-sized bar area in addition to the giant dining room. On this early Thursday evening a crowd has already gathered. As the minutes go by, the dining room gets even fuller. The meat-bearers wander freely among the diners with skewers of juicy animal flesh. This grilling technique is the Brazilian steakhouse way, and it’s known there as churrasco.
The sea bass arrives – cooked perfectly. Lightly crisp on the outside, exuding lovely juices with every tender cut of the fork, and sitting on a bed of large spears of asparagus cooked al dente. The server even brings on a new set of warm sides as the others have grown cold waiting. This Fogo de Chao chef certainly has skills in all areas, and the team is on top of service.
Just after 7 pm, and the place is getting really crowded. What a draw – unlimited amounts of meat, almost-cooked-to-order for one price. For serious meat lovers this beats all to hell the price of a traditional a la carte steakhouse experience. Fogo de Chao is open for lunch (except Saturdays), closed for a bit, then open for dinner each day. And check out the Fogo sampler bites at happy hour (4:30 to 6:30) in the bar only.
Français : Vin de Pays du Vaucluse (France) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
It comes from Domaine de Fanouillet and it’s just delicious. It surprises your nose and mouth with “aromas …redolent of wild flowers, strawberry jam, clove and slate.” says VinChicago. “The palate echoes these notes and continues on with more robust elements of leather, pine needles, white pepper, spice box and with supple tannins, bright acidity and a wisp of smoke.” But don’t worry, even if you can’t “get” all those tastes, you’re probably going to love this wine.
And at only $10.99 a bottle, Vin de Pays du Vaucluse 2014 is a big value. Honestly, I can’t remember the last time I enjoyed a red wine so much for so reasonable a price. Anyone who loves dry, medium-body red wines with their food – whether it’s a burger, a ragout, or a piece of sturdy fish – will be very pleased with this French red blend wine. And the quality is such that you can be very proud to bring it as a host/hostess gift. Check it out on VinChicago’s website.
